After a week of work and ace conditions I was psyched to get outside. First choice was Carrock but the forecast gave a misty morning and as the weather looked better towards Manchester I decided to head for the Chew valley classic bouldering circuit at Wimberry.
Arriving at the boulders early, there was an icy breeze blowing and patches of snow/ ice around. Ace sending temperatures and the boulders were dry. I got warmed up on the Sugar loaf climbing a few 4's and 5's. I then managed to retro flash local hero (6b+) and then climbed the blunt arete on the crag facing side of the boulder at 6a+. Feeling warm and strong I headed to the Sloping top boulder. I climbed the stand up version of fat slapper 6B+ first go and the slot 5+. Feeling good, strong and noticing chalk on the lower holds of the blunt arete problem I fancied trying something harder. Checking the psyche manual the grade was 7a so I got stuck into fat slapper sit start. This turned out to have good slappy moves from a flatty and undercut into the stand up. I managed to get to the sloping top out first go but couldn't quite finish it. A few goes ( and layers of skin) later I topped out. A good problem.
Psyched and still feeling good I decided to try slap happy a 6c sloping top classic that I couldn't touch five years ago when living in Manchester. Today the moves felt basic and I managed to bounce on and then slap into the top. Cool moves. Unfortunately repeated slapping for the top and stupid enthusiastic thrashing on the problem split my skin. I had to concede when blood began to flow.
The day went down hill from here. The two problems I came to do I failed to complete. A combination of worsening skin, damp top out holds and lack of spotter meant the highball classic of Think Tank (6b+) on the tank boulder didn't get finished off. I did manage to reclimb the 6C slab on the east face of this mighty boulder but enthusiasm was dwindling as blood began to flow.
Seven bleeding finger tips meant pain and grease to work out the final slap move at the top of the stunning Fish arete. I had to concede and head for home licking my wounds.
I was absolutely gutted. I was feeling strong again today but the weakest link again was poor skin and a lack of resting discipline. Psyche is bad when you thrash about.
1 comment:
Harsh beta big man, it sounded like you were on for Fish Arete. I've had an intense weekend on the plastic and joints are aching now..
Hopefully on for Caley next Sunday if you're psyched/ the weather is good.. I'll be in touch.
Glasgow Pete
Post a Comment