Saturday, 27 February 2010

The remedy

Well today the siege ended after numerous sessions and a massive amount of effort I managed to climb poison. Although I was relieved and happy to get it done, my ascent felt a bit tainted. I chose this problem to be my first 7c and had but immense amounts of time in on it, working the moves, getting the sequence refined and then repeated attempts to link it. Last Saturday i fell off the 6c finish to it. Tuesday night I rushed from work to have another go on it, only for light to fade. Thursday I got a text to say part of the finger jug hold had snapped off and it was now a slightly better hold. Last night after work I walked up in the rain to see it for myself. Today the move to the jug was still hard but the match was easier which made getting set up for the finishing crack also easier. There was now no need for the finger split pinch whilst matching. So although it went down today it wasn't the same problem I started and had fell off last week. As for the grade it may well still be 7c but is definitely easier than it was last week. So a cloud lies over my ascent and I'll have to wait to see what the new consensus is for this problem.

The video is below but I forgot to clean the lens so sorry for the hazy footage

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Good skills - still looks hard...

I need to get out to Dumby and get In Bloom sent, 'proper' hard 7c!

Pete

GCW said...

Where's all the latest blogging? We want to hear about all this latest crush!!