Saturday, 29 November 2008

Pigswill closes business


Laurie on Unjust (Font 6a+)

After a call from all round professional outdoor man Laurie (rumored to of flashed gaia in his trainers) I headed to Brownstones on the promise of some dry rock. I turned up to find pro tradder Laurie had brought two ginger whithington scallies with him. As the scallies ran around causing havoc I tried to get warmed up on digitation only to find the freezing fog had dampened the key holds. I was disappointed not to climb this classic lancashire test piece which was such a high point in my early climbing career. I was kind of warm when Laurie said I should get on Hank Pasquill's 1983 classic Pigswill (Font 7a+). I had tried this on a few occasions but had failed to get into the good holds on the top half of the problem. I didn't hold out much hope I'd get it today although bitterly cold the starting foot holds were soaking. A bit of towel action and chalk ball sorted this out. I surprised myself when i pulled on as i got to my previous high point with ease only to get spat of inches away from the top holds. The next few goes were frustrating as I used poor beta and couldn't make much head way.

Laurie enforced rest on me as he had ago at the classic font 6a + problem of Unjust. After he'd sussed out the beta on this problem I had another go on Pigswill. This time I used a good sequence and managed to use the sharp match stick crimp to set up for a snatch on to a flat sloper then got into the jugs to top out the problem. Ace!

Laurie then dispatched his project for the day Unjust let him in. He was pleased to climb this classic problem and felt good his power was still topped up.

I was really pleased to get Pigswill today as when I first started bumbling around with climbing I looked at this problem and thought how out of reach it was for me. Climbing this and Hanks Wall (Font 7a) ment i had climbed the two hard(er)problems described in the lancashire brick. Business at Brownstones closed.


Video of Pigswill

1 comment:

peterp said...

good effort hebson - you kept that one quiet under the radar!! Much more productive day than was had by the captains from Glagow!

I think I'm just gonna have to start projecting at Dumby if I want high numbers - devastating but getting the odd day out on the grit here and there doesn't teach you how to climb it!!