Something Fishy Up At Wimberry

Photo of Sully from a previous trip on problem 52 6b+ found on the excellent Fish Boulder

Well I've had a bit of a blogging draught recently, with little to report on the bouldering front knackered from work, marathon training and feeling heavy the psyche for reporting numerous sessions on projects has been low. With the arrival of spring and nice weather the enthusiasm for reporting my bumblie outings is back!

So today was probably my last day on grit until autumn. The venue of choice was the north facing crag of Wimberry. Team super skills assembled for today's sending in Wimberry car park for about eleven.The team consisted of myself (29), Laurie Carefoot (32 ish) and new grit super star Joseph Carefoot ( 2 and half). The banter started early with young Carefoot disrespecting my hat of choice. Stating ' you can't climb on grit unless your wearing a hat with a monkey on'

The team packed up and fought there way past the Manchester scallies out for a bumble around the sailing reservoir with dogs and kids in toe. The usual funny looks and stares at pads are mandatory at this location but you are soon heading up through the plantation onto the quiet moorside strewn with quality boudering.

We headed to the giant tank boulder to get warmed up. Joseph sent some nice problems in his trainers then declared it was time for the picnic before Laurie and I could pull on our boots. I eventually caught Joesph up and got my boots on and warmed up on the easy problems on the tank. My main objective on this bloc was to finish off Think Tank (6b+). This is a pumpy leftwards-rising traverse. The start is crimpy and hard, then you fall into some big flakey jugs but with poor foot holds and then to finish off a spooky rock over at the apex of this high boulder. Last time i visited this problem the top was wet and I couldn't send it but today was going to be different. God i've just sent my first grit 7B+ the other week this should be easy No?

Not the case it took me five goes to get the first few starting moves sorted and then I skidded off the poor foot holds before getting into the flakey jugs. Gutted my fingers were getting trashed it was looking like the same old story for this problem. Then with some encouragement from the young grit master Joe 'picnic' Carefoot i managed to struggle through the start and got into the jugs. As my boulders body was not used to doing more than eight moves this section pumped me solid and i couldn't summon up enough stamina ( balls) to rock out the top moves. Gutted i sat down with Joseph and Laurie for a bit of picnic action and some of Joseph's power chocolate buttons.

After this power rest i managed to get through the starting moves into the flakey jugs and rocked over onto the top of the boulder with a whoop of relief. Joseph was disappointed it had taken me so long and didn't share my joy. Preferring to search for bugs in his box of grapes!

Laurie managed a swift ascent of Elephant's Bum (5) then we packed up and headed up to the Fish Boulder.

The line of choice was the stunning arete and rib of Fish arete (6c+). I first saw a photo of Ben Moon on this line in climber. It impressed me then and your not disappointed when stood looking at it. The moves on the problem are awesome and flow nicely before the final slap for the top. I managed to send this problem after a few goes. It felt awesome and really satisfying to top out. Well worth the drive and slog up the hill. As Laurie worked the stand up I had a look at the sitter at 7b+. I sussed the beta for the opening move of the floor. It involved pulling on the arete with your right and a side pull on the rib for your left. Then placing a funky heel on the bottom of the rib to reach the sharp crimp on the stand up. This was a quality move but I kept skidding off before being able to move my right hand up the arete. The more goes I had the more liquid seeped out my hands until finally the sharp hold on the rib ripped a hole in my left hand. Hard climbing finished for the day.

Laurie managed to hit the slap for the top a couple of times on this problem. He managed to match the top hold but a poor ankle movement he couldn't rock out the top moves gutted for him as he looked solid on the moves to this high point.

We then had a look at the Coarse Traverse (7a). I had a couple of goes but the key slopers were in the sun. A no go for today. I managed to send problem 52 a good little 6b+ sitting start to a short rib into slopers then the top.

Another boulderer suggested we climb The Groove next to the arete. Stating it was a quality 6c problem. I wasn't disappointed lovely moves up the hanging groove to the same top out as fish arete. An ace finish to the day and this season on grit.

All that was left was the bumble back down the hill. This was harder than the days sending as Joseph 'picnic' Carefoot passed out on his Dad's shoulders. The youth of today might be able to send all theses hard problems but they ain't got the stamina to get back down!