Been meaning to post for a while. Last week was good. I spent a couple of sessions up at warton. The places is magical at the moment with glorious flower displays, views across the bay and quality limestone bouldering.
The Monday session was hot and sweaty but i warmed up and then sat underneath debaser (7b) trying the moves. Unfortunately the slap into the jug felt too hard after the moves from the sitter and I left a bit gutted.
The Wednesday session was ace. Conditions were good it had clouded over and there was a nice breeze. I had plenty of time to spare and got warmed up nicely on some easier problems. I then sat down to debaser pulled on, pulling through the jugs. Then hit the blind slap to a crimpy hold, got set up with the gaston and sorted my feet and slapped into the jug hitting it higher than normal. It felt much better and I managed to pull up and match it. Then I completed the moves to the finishing jugs. Ace moves and cool to get this problem.
I then had a few goes on Voodoo people. This is brick hard at 7a+ and although i managed to start the hideous rock over/ stand up there wasn't a chance of getting this problem. It's a desperate local John Gaskins test piece.
I decided to head over to black buttress and try Black light. I had worked on this on a previous visit and really wanted to nail the flick through move to the flat edge. A couple of refresher goes later I had done the move and finished the stand up at 7a+ . As I was there I decided I'd better have a go at the sitter. This gets 7b+ and I had a quick look last year but it felt desperate. After a couple of goes i got the feet sorted and pulled into the poor two finger pocket and got the flowstone. I then hit the dead point move and set up for the flick through but frustratingly popped off. Gutted. I gave it a bit of a power rest and then got back on and manged the moves caught the flick through move to the flat edge and then completed the 'english 5b' top out feeling a bit powered out and wobbly. The problem is a great 6 meters of limestone climbing with cool moves. A great evening for me getting two 7b problems in a session.
The Wednesday session was ace. Conditions were good it had clouded over and there was a nice breeze. I had plenty of time to spare and got warmed up nicely on some easier problems. I then sat down to debaser pulled on, pulling through the jugs. Then hit the blind slap to a crimpy hold, got set up with the gaston and sorted my feet and slapped into the jug hitting it higher than normal. It felt much better and I managed to pull up and match it. Then I completed the moves to the finishing jugs. Ace moves and cool to get this problem.
I then had a few goes on Voodoo people. This is brick hard at 7a+ and although i managed to start the hideous rock over/ stand up there wasn't a chance of getting this problem. It's a desperate local John Gaskins test piece.
I decided to head over to black buttress and try Black light. I had worked on this on a previous visit and really wanted to nail the flick through move to the flat edge. A couple of refresher goes later I had done the move and finished the stand up at 7a+ . As I was there I decided I'd better have a go at the sitter. This gets 7b+ and I had a quick look last year but it felt desperate. After a couple of goes i got the feet sorted and pulled into the poor two finger pocket and got the flowstone. I then hit the dead point move and set up for the flick through but frustratingly popped off. Gutted. I gave it a bit of a power rest and then got back on and manged the moves caught the flick through move to the flat edge and then completed the 'english 5b' top out feeling a bit powered out and wobbly. The problem is a great 6 meters of limestone climbing with cool moves. A great evening for me getting two 7b problems in a session.
1 comment:
Black Light is probably more 7b than +, in decent conditions.
But ignore me, I'm just jealous. :-p
Get to Farleton, my boy.
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