Sick Of Running

Well since my last post the weather has crapped out and I’ve become sick of running on roads. Anything more than 1hr ½ is boring me now. I’ll be glad when this marathon is done on the 31st of this month so I can get stuck into some bouldering.

Bouldering wise I’ve tried to keep ticking with short sessions on the finger board and outside when time and weather has permitted. On the whole it’s been frustrating. I’ve had three session on the red wall climbing and trying many of the eliminates but getting frustrated on ying yang. I just couldn’t work out or hold the sloping pocket. I spent one session slapping into it with my right and another with my left. Neither seemed to work so I left feeling pissed off.



Then when the weather got better last Friday I headed up to Farleton Knott. I’ve wanted to get back up here to try the coil and newer rose. Although not with massive amounts of bouldering these two problems are gems. Along with pandemonium it would make a good visit for the good (8a) wall climber. I got stuck into trying the coil which is essentially a direct start to an HVS. It was first climbed by will Williamson in 1984. After seeing a video of this on lakes bloc I thought I might be able to flash this problem as Greg makes it look piss. As always with these things its about the subtle body positions and finding the right parts of the holds. I found setting up for the ‘pop’ move to the break fine but releasing from the coil and hitting the right part of the break wasn’t happening for the first few goes. Then a quick solo of the HVS and I sussed out where to hit the break. A couple more goes and I was topping out. A quality wall problem on excellent limestone. Well worth popping in for if your driving up or down the M6.
After getting this I had a look at new(er) rose on the tier above the coil. This problem is another ace looking limestone wall but unfortunately it felt desperate for me and the opening pull on a two finger ( pulley breaking) pocket/ pinch was too scary for me. So I left it for another day. (When I can do a one arm two finger dead hang!)

On the Sunday gone after a 20 mile run I managed to make my first climbing visit of the year to Woodwell (pete check out the lakes bloc video here). I was spanked but managed to do a few of my old favourites on Tom’s Buttress and then familiarised myself with beauty of being numb. Since a hold breaking this has become (or was) a crimpy two move roof problem. It’s all about getting a good left heel/toe combo along with getting your right leg in the right flagging position. I tried it for a couple of sessions last year but had no luck. On Sunday it was the same story but I did feel better on it and kept hitting the crimp around the roof.

Tonight I headed back to Woodwell got warmed up and got back on beauty of being numb. Eventually after ten goes or so I managed to get the heel/toe to work, got my right leg right under the roof and held the crimp on the roof to then bring my right hand into the pocket and then pulled through to the finishing jugs. ACE. I was happy.
Then I had a look at Screaming Slave this of course is another roof problem on crimps. A few more moves than beauty and another problem I had tried last year. Unfortunately I didn’t manage it but the opening moves felt much easier this year but I just couldn’t use the foot holds to pull through to the jug in the roof. Gutted but one to go back for!