Since my last post I've managed to get out a few times. On Tuesday I managed a trip up to the Garburn pass to try Phantasmagoria a three star problem in the lakes bouldering rock fax. I got warmed up in the evening sunshine soaking in the marvellous atmosphere of the valley. I then got stuck into trying the target problem of the day. Even though the problem was in the shade the holds were hot and sweaty and I struggled to get to the same point as on my previous visit. Then the slight breeze dropped and the midges came out! After an hour of sweating, slipping off holds and constant biting I left with probably over 200 bites. Lesson learnt don't go to Kentmere unless it's cool or windy.
Thursday looked cooler and windier so I thought I'd try Kentmere again. Half way up the hill to the Garburn boulder the heavens opened and I turned round back to the car. All was not wasted on the drive home it appeared the south lakes lime had missed the showers so I called into the Fairy steps. After getting warmed up on the nice traverse that is Democracy I headed down to try the Trick. On previous attempts on this I've failed to latch the break. Been put off by the sharp break and unsure of the beta. Thursday was different and I stuck with the slot /undercut ,dynamic jump, latch break beta. After a lot of goes I landed the break and found myself mantling out the top. Cool! This problem has taken me two sessions this year and two last year so I would definitely give this problem the 7a+ grade for folk under 6ft like myself! I had a look at the problems on the Aeons buttress but only managed the easy crack. The dyno problem was intense to get set up for and aeons felt desperate.
Today I popped in to Trowbarrow for an hour or so on my way to visiting father. I warmed up on redwall then had another look at the pit problem. Again this is a problem I've had a look at in the past without to much joy. Today again failure but in the words of one famous stick star 'I learn't something about that move'. That would be the move from the side pull to the edge. So hopefully one that will get sent soon!
Well this week I think another trip to the Garburn pass and Trowbarrow will be order. Hopefully some cool midge free evenings.
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