Me on Badger Arete (V5/Fb 6c+) and Dave on Strongbone Tactics (V8/Fb 7b)
Although I had very poor skin I couldn’t let a glorious spring day go to waste so I decided to head to the lakes in search of some less abrasive rock. I headed into to the superb Kentmere Valley. After managing to find a parking spot I trudged up the hill to the Garburn pass boulder. Following behind me was another boulderer called Dave (the managing director of the infamous power house in Heysham).
Got warmed up on a few nice problems such as Ocelot (Fb3), Recusant (V2/Fb 5+) and Quixotic arête (V3/6a+). Although ia had a different main event in mind Dave got me involved with trying a new problem called Strongbone tactics at V8/Fb 7b. Dave declared it doable and very much like climbing on a board. After a few attempts we both managed to get ourselves established on the two sharp crimps before the throw for the lip. By this point I was pissing blood out of my tips and had to give up. Dave managed to swing his feet across and line up for the throw to the lip. I think the beta was good and it’s another problem to go back and try this coming spring!
With taped up and sore finger tips I had a look at a V7/Fb7a+ problem called Phantasmagoria. This involved a few more sharp crimps and steep pulls which didn’t really suit me by this point so I gave up after a handful of attempts.
I bailed down to badger rock to try and salvage something out of the day. After a few goes on the brilliant badger arête I managed to climb the sit down version at V5/Fb 6c+. This was a great problem, with good moves on a classic boulder in an excellent valley. A good day out but a shame my skin got really trashed so early into my Easter break.
Got warmed up on a few nice problems such as Ocelot (Fb3), Recusant (V2/Fb 5+) and Quixotic arête (V3/6a+). Although ia had a different main event in mind Dave got me involved with trying a new problem called Strongbone tactics at V8/Fb 7b. Dave declared it doable and very much like climbing on a board. After a few attempts we both managed to get ourselves established on the two sharp crimps before the throw for the lip. By this point I was pissing blood out of my tips and had to give up. Dave managed to swing his feet across and line up for the throw to the lip. I think the beta was good and it’s another problem to go back and try this coming spring!
With taped up and sore finger tips I had a look at a V7/Fb7a+ problem called Phantasmagoria. This involved a few more sharp crimps and steep pulls which didn’t really suit me by this point so I gave up after a handful of attempts.
I bailed down to badger rock to try and salvage something out of the day. After a few goes on the brilliant badger arête I managed to climb the sit down version at V5/Fb 6c+. This was a great problem, with good moves on a classic boulder in an excellent valley. A good day out but a shame my skin got really trashed so early into my Easter break.
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