Sunday, 6 April 2008

Warton for a quick fix




Inspired by Greg Chapman’s new topo (click here) I headed up to Warton Pinnacle crag to try to finish off some unfinished business from last year.
After the lovely walk up the hill I turned up at plum buttress to find a guy called Dan trying Greg Chapman’s new problem called E Fix. This weighs in at font 7C+/8a. This guy was a beast and had already done Greg’s version of the problem and was now trying a new variation to it. After a few goes (2 or 3) he managed to send this problem as I captured the event on video. (see above). This was his second day on after a mammoth session on the Bowderstone the day before, some people are just in another league. Dan then had to bail as he was only stopping of for an hour as he headed back to uni in Sheffield.
After Dan left and between snow showers I warmed up on a number of the easy problems found on plum buttress. Most of these problems involved pulling through a roof on jugs. I managed the sit down versions of the prow (Fb 6b), masters at work (Fb 6a), Evolution (Fb 6a), Dihedral (Fb 6a+) and lone tree groove (Fb 4).
Then I took at look at debaser (Fb 7b) and Voodoo people (Fb 7b). I managed the opening few moves on both these problems put came unstuck when it came to turning the lip. As my guns were running low and skin was feeling thin again I decided I’d go and try to complete some unfinished business from last summer in the shape of Totally Focussed on the pinnacle buttress.
As I looked at the line I noticed underneath a bulge a chalked up under cling /thumb pinch I hadn’t used last year. Spotting this I got stuck in quickly and with this hold found an excellent sequence that seemed to work. Feeling this would go and work I decided to have ago at the sit down start which goes at V8/Fb 7b. After a few (8-10) attempts I managed to get into the stand up version and nearly pull into the easy top section only failing because I hadn’t spotted a nice side pull out left to complete the top moves. By this point I was feeling weak and battered after my couple of days on. So I called it a day with another local project on my list of things to do this spring.

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