Warton Again

View on the walk up to the pinnacle crag

After two days of rest and skin repair I decided to head up to Warton Crag to have another go at totally focussed (V8/Font 7b). I got warmed up on the easier roof problems at the plum buttress (V1-V4) I then had a few pathetic attempts at climbing hoodoo people. This is a John Gaskins steep roof problem that gets V5 Font 6c+ but felt more like 8b to me. I think I was missing a trick or more likely the required body tension to complete this problem. After this I headed to the pinnacle area to try Totally Focussed. After a few goes I managed to split my tip open on the sharp undercut/pinch and had to tape up. After a few more tiring attempts I got through most of the hard climbing before getting a painful crimp just before the juggy finishing crack. After falling from here I couldn’t get back to the high point and had to call it a day again as my fingers were in pain and gushing blood. Tasty!