Font 7B !!

Video of me climbing Totally Focussed

After three day’s rest and skin growth I decided to head to Warton again to try totally focussed (V8/Font 7b) for the third time in the last week or so. After landing up at the plum buttress I was shocked to see three other climbers one of them was Jordan Buys who was beasting through all the hard roof problems in the area. I decided to seek peace and quiet for my warm up and headed straight to the pinnacle area and traversed a bit then climbed muscle crack (V0/Font 4) a couple of times to get the guns firing.
Then I jumped on totally focussed managing to get to my last high point on my fist attempt but deciding to use a crimp out left below the crack. This didn’t work and I got spat off moving up to the crack. I then decided to match on the tiny sharp crimps in the crack below the juggy finishing crack. With the new revised sequence and my skin holding out I got stuck into the problem again. Managing the hard pull of the side pull and undercut to snatch for the pinch. Then got the upper flat crimp to match my feet in the break and stretched for the sharp crimps above. A final sideways slap and I was into the finishing juggy crack and then the top. An ace problem with cool moves! Well relieved and happy to finish my first crimpy V8. Unfortunately whilst repeating the climb a couple of times for the camera I managed to split my finger tips open rendering the rest of the day useless.
I did manage to find the black buttress to climb a nice V3 highball and found a new harder project for the spring. Black Lights at Font 7b+. Lets see what happens!