Caley

Glasgow Pete On The Horn Problem (V4/Fb 6b)

For the second day of grit fest 2008 the crag of choice was Caley. The team rocked up to the crag for about ten and headed straight for the crag boulders.
First up we all climbed a nice smeary V3/Fb 6a+ arête on one of the cream egg boulders (Click here). Then we all managed to drag ourselves up a tricky V3/Fb 6a sitting start arête (Click here).
Next Sully and I both flashed a nice V2/Fb 6a slab on the fairy cake boulder whilst Pete went to sniff out a nice flying arête problem. Sully and I hooked up with Pete on the Yule log boulder. Pete and I got stuck into working out the sequence on the V5/Fb 6c arête. The starting moves from a sitter felt hard and required a heel hook to keep you on. After a few goes I managed to sort out the opening moves and pull through to the sloping holds that led desperately to the top. A nice problem but very sustained for V5. Pete kept having a go coming close to getting in to the finishing sequence but couldn’t quite sort his sequence out to get the top.
Next stop was the Horn boulder . We all got stuck into trying the V4/Fb 6b problem trying to use both arêtes to get up. The trick to this problem was getting a sneaky toe hook in around the right arête to be able to get the pocket then a sloper for your left to line up for a snatch to the top. All of us managed to get this quality problem. (Click here)
After this problem Sully and I quickly climbed Mr Smooth(V3/Fb 6a). A tricky slab problem for the grade found on the Pancake boulder. (Click here)
We then fuelled up and packed up to trek back to the roadside boulders. Were I had a number of frustrating attempts at New Jerusalem (V6/Fb 7a). This problem really pissed me off as I couldn’t get a sequence that didn’t feel desperate for the cross through move. After too many attempts I sacked it off for another day.
I rejoined the Glasgow lads at the scoop boulder where they were trying a deceptive arête that got V5/Fb 6c. Pete was the first to unlock the sequence on this problem. Slapping dynamically into to the finishing holds. With this beta I managed to get this problem second. Eventually after much skin loss and bleeding Sully managed to the latch the top hold to bag his first V5. Good effort to the scribe of Scottish sends! I managed to flash the other arête at V3/Fb 6a and eventually dragged myself up the scoop a v4/6b slab problem.
Next Pete took us to forked lightning crack. After watching Pete try the opening moves I pulled my boots on and flashed this classic V4/Fb 6b problem. It felt good to get this first go as my energy levels were plummeting. Pete managed to get this problem straight after me. (Click here).
By this time my skin was thin, Sully was still pissing blood out of his tips and the guns were getting low. Pete and I had a go at another V5 problem that rocked out of a groove onto a slab but both of us failed to make much head way. It was time to go!
An ace day had by all at a brilliant crag. All new problems for me buzzin!