Wet rock, no guts and split tip

Fb 7a roof problem at Scout hut crag

While glasgow pete and sully (aka scottish sends) were having a buzzin time up at bowden doors (Click here for review) I was driving round yorkshire in search of dry rock. First port of call was Shipley Glen. Looking at the weather report in Lancaster it looked the best bet for some gritstone action. Arrived at the glen after an hours or so drive to find wet rock and loads of dog walkers. The place looked really good with lots of nice crimpy wall problems shame it didn't look like it would dry out.


So I headed off on a bit of a magical mystery tour round the B roads of yorkshire eventually ending up at Scout Hut Crag near widdop. The rock was dry so I got stuck into trying a highball V6/Fb 7a on the roof block. This had excellent moves round a roof on to some sloping holds to a high finish. I got close and managed to line up for the top on a couple of occasions but couldn't find the guts to top out without a spotter and a few mats.


A little pissed off I left to try the V6/Fb 7a crimpy wall problem left of splash down arete at Widdop. Fortunately this seemed like the only climbable piece of rock at Widdop with the holds being only a little damp. So I got the holds dry then got stuck in. I got close again to latching the damp top but for the second time running whilst trying this problem I split a hole in the tips of my fingers and began bleeding over the rock. Time to go home after another frustraing damp day in yorkshire!