Me on Disco Breeze V5/Fb 6c (left) and problem 2 V8/Fb 7b (right)
Had a session on the board at Ingleton yesterday and was going to meet Pete in yorkshire today but got held up with house stuff and planning. By about two I was gutted the weather had held and I hadn't gone out. What I muppet should of gone to Caley. I couldn't sit at the computer any longer so I thought I would chance trowbarrow.
Turned up in the quarry where there were loads of people chuffin. I headed to the excellent red wall tucked in behind the trees opposite the huge slab that's soon to tipple! Bits were dry so I got warmed up by doing a number of variations on the nice finger crak of american express V3/Fb 6a. Then I decided to do the fingery traverse of disco breezeV5/Fb 6c. This uses a horrible split finger crimp and a small flat hold to traverse round a bulge and finsh up american express. I got this after a few go's. Then I did a nice Fb6a rock over eliminate on crimps to a jug, just too far away to be really easy. Then it was time to have a crack at Nick's problem. This is an excellent V4/Fb 6b+ that always seems to take far to many goes to get sent. The crux involves going off two ok crimps, with your right foot high on a jug and launching for a sloper at full strecth. I managhed to land this move after the usual ten or so attempts. A good problem but frustrating to get quickly.
Then I headed to the shelter stone to have a look at problem 2. This is a good looking overhanging V8 which I fancied having a go at last time I was on this boulder. I think I managed to work out part of the correct sequence. From what I can suss the moves involve using a good tilted slot, your left foot tucks underneath to a shiny hold, your right hand uses the edge of a large cutaway where you also pull with your heel. Once you pull on you can get hold of an ok pinch with your right before going again for a positive crimp round a bulge then you get the top lip and rock onto the slab. I managed to get the pinch but couldn't get into a good position to snatch for the crimp. Felt weak very quickly on this and I need to have a look not on my second day on!
A nice quick session. Good to be touching rock but would of been better to go to yorkshire!
7 comments:
Alright Hebson, gutted you couldn't make ot over to Caley yesterday - Trowbarrow..?!! Did a quality circuit and was managing to pull on easily and almost latch the slopey jug of 'New Jerusalem'. Me and Bawjaws aka sully are probably gonna head down to the shire over Easter weekend, I've got an empty at my folks house so you should get involved. By the way Brimham is definitely up there with the other venues -found some quality stuff! Pete
i'll be there i'm off from thursday till monday for top sending action!
Hate to say it but there is nothing "excellent" about the red wall. Its worse than the Wolfcrag (you know what I mean Peter!) Hope you can make it through to chataux Phillips over the easter weekend! Sully
The photo heading should say "Me with Disco leg again"
Loz
easter weekend for big sending I can climb probably the thursday friday, saturday and sunday. What are other peoples crack! anyone get the thursday off to start the sending early?
red wall is ace you just have no tecnique sully!
Ok Laurie I did have a bit of disco leg but it was because i was bearing down so hard and all the people chuffing made me distracted!
Got nothing to do with technique... The place is a good "local" venue but is essentially turd. Ive sorted my blog.. By the way Laurie it is at www.scottishsends.blogspot.com
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