Friday, 7 August 2009

Bouldering Makes Me Happy

It was noticeably cooler, the sun had dipped down behind the western hills that flank swindale head and I was stood at the bottom of the ‘inspirational’ (quote rock fax) prow of J- mascis on my fifth last go. I was feeling slightly sick and was shaking a little, a combination of nerves, adrenaline and red bull. I wanted this so bad but doubts had begun to creep into my head. I had ignored other boulderers advice and only taken one decent mat, the floor was wet and slippy, the problem was high, the top out unsure, I had skidded off and face plant on to my mat on a previous attempt and after sneaking round the top to check out the supposedly easy top out moves I was still unsure of the finishing sequence. I looked down at my pink finger tips, my left thumb and right palm were hurting from repeated attempts, the midges were out and biting. I didn’t want to have to come back I wanted this but things didn’t feel right. ‘Fuck it one more go and man up this time’ I told myself. Here we go ‘ left hand on poor crimpy/pinch bottom of left arête, right hand cups the right arête but make sure you get the thumb pinch, right toe on good hold, throw left heel on to ramp thing and pull through with left hand to catch the sloper and thumb sprag (?) right foot up to another good ish foot below the right arête proper, next slap with the right into an edge on the right arête , then set up for the crux throw to catch a side pull/pinch with right, place left heel round the left arête, grab another but poorer side pull with left, sketch feet up onto the arête proper, reach round with right hand for horrible dirty hold, feels sketchy, move left heel up reach round with left for good hold. Right here we are again, compose, don’t fuck it up. Breath. Grab a hand full of right arête. Shit it’s dirty. Bring left foot to the face of the prow, right foot high up on edge above the pull/pinch on the arête. Pull through for good flat nearly jug edge, cross through with left for good hold, Shit if I weight this I’m going to spin off. Bollocks I’ve fucked it. Reverse to drop on mat. But what’s that? A good edge around left. That feels good. Cool get top of prow with right hand pull through to finishing jugs and glory. Awesome! Adrenaline rush, Shout for joy’ A three star problem. Bouldering makes me happy!

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Good send big man - highball

GCW said...

Nice one.