Monday, 24 August 2009

Poison – session 1

One of my goals this year was to try to climb a 7c and as I’ve managed to get my list of sends above 7a into the twenties it was time to have a look at something a bit harder.
My 7c project of choice is poison a 12 (ish) move problem up at warton pinnacle crag on the plum buttress. It starts from sitting below a short roof, climbs up a the start of voodoo people to the lip of the roof, traverses the roof on small crimps and slopers, then a big move drops you on to a jug (ish) and then you finish up the old skool crack problem of sugarfix. (see video of sugarfix below). Now the whole problem could be a bit long for me but as some of my mates have christened me ‘one move hebson’ I thought I’d better make my first 7c a long one. I know it’s going to take a few/many sessions but I think it’s a good enough problem to invest my time in. Now there are some positives to this problem
1. I can do the finish of the problem already
2. The problem is on limestone a rock type I like
3. It’s easy to jump on the problem at any point and work any of the moves
4. It’s pretty close to home
5. It’s a cool problem

We’ll today was my first session on the problem and I managed to do all the moves except one. The moves I did felt good and I felt solid on most of them. The move that seems to be the crux of the problem is the sideways drop down move from two small crimps on the lip to the good hold which I use with my left hand to start sugarfix. I had a few goes at this move hitting the good hold a couple of times but not holding it.
Next session on this problem I’ll just work this move until I nail it.
Today I left warton feeling good and thinking it should go. I’ll just have to make sure I have enough endurance to get up the problem.
Approximate time spent on problem 2hrs.

2 comments:

Keeg said...

Are you using a right toe hook for the move to the good hold? I found it really helped. GCW has a vimeo film of this problem which shows the toe-hook. Bit of a wierd move, feels a bit inconceivable until you go for it then it's not to bad. Anyway good luck with it, it's a great problem.

andy said...

cheers for the advice tried it out today felt like it should go that way but couldn't hold the bloody jug toe kept popping out