This morning I headed back up to Warton to have another session on poison. As the roads were dry I was hoping plumb buttress would also be dry after last nights down pour. On arrival the sun hadn’t come round but the exposed nature of the buttress and pleasant breeze had dried it out. Bonus!
It seems to take me ages to warm up these days and more often than not the first half an hour my limbs feel stiff and sore and I move like a sack of spuds. I hope it’s not my age starting to catch up on me! 30 next year arrh!
By the time I’d done some traversing around, climbed sugarfix and hoodoo people it was time to get on poison. Today’s plan was to try the drop down move from crimps to a jug which I couldn’t do on my last visit. We’ll today I hit the jug about ten times but couldn’t hold it, my toe hook kept slipping out and I was spat off. Harsh! (vid of the move below). I’m hoping it is a ‘feel’ thing and once you get it you can keep doing it because at that moment I don’t think there is a chance of me doing this move after the five or six starting moves. After these ten goes I had had enough and climbed the start to this crux move then the finish from after the crux just to keep my body familiar with these moves. Before heading off I sent plumbline traverse. This is a 20 ish move traverse. It starts from jugs moves across some crimps into a juggy rail and finishes up a relatively easy problem that feels desperate once you get to it. I’m hoping doing this problem a few times on my visits up here will help me build some power endurance for the main event.
Time spent on poison 4hrs.
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3 comments:
You gotta really use that toe hook. I find it hard 'cos I have to keep teh leg bent, same as VM, so I can't get a decent degree of leverage on it.
But I do think it's one of those that will just click.
Oh, and the last bit of Plumbline Traverse is nails!
I agree with GCW. You're taking your toe out before you fall off. If you just keep it in you'll stick the move, and once you've done it a couple of times it feels OK because you know you can do it. I think it really helps having a good spot for the first few goes of that move as it feels a bit commiting with that block underneath you. Maybe try and drag a chum up there with you for some hot spot action?
I've done a new post - Sully
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