Thursday, 13 August 2009

Old Buoy

The plan today was to head to St bees, take it easy and climb the easy problems on the soon to be published (I assume?) old buoy’s circuit. On landing up at the circuit this was blown out the water as I got too excited and wanted to try some of the medium/harder lines.
My warm up consisted of falling off the shoulder busting old buoy mantle a few times before getting up it. Then I threw myself at old buoy traverse twice pumping myself stupid. I then decided I should rest a bit and depump a bit. After a rest I managed to climb this excellent problem. The problem is a traverse along a perfectly formed lip turns a corner (the crux) and then up the arête of the boulder with poor foot holders. After this my elbows were beginning to hurt.
Next up I had a look at Hornblower. This turned out to be a nice wall problem that uses a crimp and under cut to reach a ledge then traverses off left. Very nice moves shame it doesn’t top out.
I then had a look at Big Buoy an excellent looking arête problem. I managed to get near to the top of the arête but couldn’t get round the arête (left to right) to traverse off right. It felt cool and I’d like to of sent it but my elbows were hurting and it was difficult to matt the landing with only one matt. I had to concede but will definitely be back next time I meet up with a crew over at st bees. A nice little venue with some cool problems cheers Greg for the heads up and the guide!

3 comments:

Greg Chapman said...

Hi Andy,

I'm prepared to accept blame for this as it should have said "start immediately left of the blunt arete" (in fact thought I had, but having checked it appears not), on the topo.

Any who, Hornblower does in fact start immediately left of Big Buoy and thus goes up to the (poor) RH crimp in the horizontal seam (left of the arete) and then makes makes a very tough (all your weight on the bad RH crimp) move across to the side pull, which you just step off the ground and up to on your video. Sorry to be a pain, maybe I should give up writing topos...

andy said...

No worries greg, nice spot and good fun had, good work on documenting another top spot. I'll take the video down and amend it.
Keep up the hard work! Any ideas on jungle hobo?

Greg Chapman said...

Andy, I just PM'd you via UKB.

I hope Gareth reads my above comment... then he won't think I just pick on him regarding doing problems wrong, ha ha.